Let me start with a story. I was once on a trip in the Danakil Desert in Ethiopia, one of the hottest places in the world, but also home to these amazing salt fields. Simply beautiful.
As I walked around with my camera, I noticed a person in the distance and a gorgeous reflection of the setting sun. I photographed the person, but I wasn't happy with the result. I felt I had to frame the scene somehow. But you're in the desert, and there is nothing there. Nothing. Just plain flat emptiness. How would you frame it?
Then my eye caught a little branch on the ground. Well, that's interesting.
I used the branch to do the framing. It wasn't the most beautiful photograph out there, but the point of this story is simple: you can always find an element to sub-frame with, even in the desert.
I show all ten techniques with examples in this video, and everything is below in writing too.
WHAT IS SUB-FRAMING?
Sub-framing is one of the most powerful techniques for bringing your viewer's attention straight into the story. It means using a frame within the frame: by enclosing the subject in a secondary frame, like a doorway, window, or archway, you create depth, context, and a far more dynamic and engaging composition than a flat, unframed photo.
Sub-framing is a versatile technique that can be used across photographic genres, from landscape and architecture photography to portrait and street photography. It can create a sense of scale, isolate the subject from distracting elements in the background, and add visual interest and depth to the photograph.
When using sub-framing, it's important to consider the size, shape, and placement of the frame within the frame. The frame should be large enough to create a sense of enclosure around the subject, but not so large that it overwhelms the image. Placement matters too: where the frame sits affects the viewer's perception of the subject and the overall composition.
The choice of lens and focal length also plays a role. Wide-angle lenses can capture expansive views that incorporate the frame within the frame, while longer focal lengths isolate the subject within the frame and create a more intimate composition.
Sub-framing can also be combined with other composition techniques, such as leading lines or layers, which multiplies its effect.
Most people know only the basic version: someone standing in a doorway or a window. That's what's usually taught, and that's where most photographers stop. But there is more. So much more. Let me show you at least ten ways.
THE POPULAR STYLES
1. Classic sub-framing. Windows, doorways, or anything with that frame-like shape. Position your subject inside it, and the attention goes directly to them. The door or window also provides structure, balance, and symmetry. Commonly used in portrait photography, but it works in many genres.
2. Natural frames. Elements from the environment do the framing: trees, leaves, rocks. Landscape photographers use leaves to frame a building all the time. In my example, I used rock formations and the light falling between them. Mostly a landscape technique, but it applies beautifully to travel photography as well.
3. Architectural frames. Similar to classic sub-framing, but using architecture: arches, columns, monuments, like my photograph at the Taj Mahal. Common in architectural and street photography, and it adds an extra sense of place to the image.
4. Negative space frames. I bet you didn't think about this one. You can frame with emptiness: the empty space around your subject becomes the frame, pulling attention straight to them. This is the tool of minimalist and very clean street photography, but it's a valid technique anywhere.
5. Framing with light (chiaroscuro). This is probably my favorite. On a sunny day, or wherever light hits strongly, I expose for the highlights and place my subject in the bright area. Everything around disappears into darkness. In post-processing you can push the contrast further, turning the dark parts almost black for a dramatic frame. In a way it's negative space made of shadow. The key is to have something interesting happening in the bright area. I've written more about this approach in my chiaroscuro article.
THE LESS POPULAR STYLES
Really, sub-framing is limited only by imagination. You can use almost anything to frame. Look around:
6. Patterns. In one photograph, I noticed a pattern of hands surrounding a woman. Framing her with the hands brought the attention to her and added context at the same time.
7. Mirrors. Very popular for framing subjects, in street photography and beyond. You've probably seen photos of makeup artists reflected in their mirror: photograph the mirror, and your subject arrives pre-framed.
8. Other people. No mirror around, no pattern of hands? Use people. Shoot between someone's arms, between two legs, past a passerby, or frame one person between two others. It's still sub-framing: you're directing attention to your subject.
9. Everyday objects. And if you run out of all of the above, you can always throw some towels in and frame your subject with laundry on a line. On a rainy day, a set of umbrellas brings attention to your subject perfectly.
10. And if you have none of these... you can always use a camel.
FINAL THOUGHT
Sub-framing combines beautifully with other composition techniques, like leading lines or layers, and once you start looking for frames, you'll find them everywhere: in branches, shadows, elbows, and camels. Let me know in the comments how you do your sub-framing.